Weinachtsmarkt

Vienna Rathaus

One of the reasons for moving our European travel plans up in the queue of retirement events was to celebrate my return to normal - health, that is. The other and more compelling reason was to return in time for the Weinachtsmarkt, or Christmas Markets. Some of our favorite memories of our time living in Europe are of these markets, which are staged in plaza's all over Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Because we had family with us in visits to Salzburg, Rattenburg, and other Austrian towns, the Austrian markets have been the most memorable.

What's so special about these Christmas markets, which both St. Paul and Minneapolis tried (and failed) to replicate this year? It's not the multiple vendors displaying hand made and machine made gifts in small, individual but identical storefronts. Though some of the gifts are unique works of art, a good number are a bit, well, manufactured and repetitive. No, the real specialness in these markets is the social aspect. Late in the afternoon or early in the evening come the school children in flocks. If you're not careful you can get caught up in these flocks and be carried away for some distance before escaping. Not long into the evening come the families.



They come to eat, drink, and socialize. It's the eating and certainly the drinking that is the priority, enjoyed between visits to the shops and threading through the crowds. At least a third of the shops are food stalls serving all kinds of deep fried, fried, and baked goodies. Somewhat similar to (fill in the blank) on a Stick at a state or county fair in Minnesota. Other shops are dedicated to serving beverages, mostly Gluwien (hot sweet wine) or hot punch of multiple varieties. Each glass is served in a mug specially designed for that particular market. You pay for the mug up front, but get the deposit back when you return it. Or you can keep it for the cost of your deposit.



Unlike the state fair, you don't walk around with your food or drink. You stand at tables with your family or friends (perhaps new friends just made), focusing on the eating or drinking and talking. Very social but without the devices seemingly necessary these days.

No cover charge. No entrance gates. Lots of vendors for whom this constitutes a majority of their annual income. And lot's of gift buying. It's a special holiday atmosphere that serves as an annual and simple destination event for most Austrians, and a few Americans sprinkled in for diversity.