Don't Judge a (Hotel) by it's Cover

Cities are always more impressive when arriving by water at night. I might have my memories confused in chronology,  but that is my first memory of Thunderbay, Ontario, on the north shore of Lake Superior. A safe harbor with real restaurants and real people. It looked awfully inviting to a young lad marooned with his parents on a 22-foot sailboat for weeks at a time. The landing target was a creosote-ladened wharf that required a careful approach to avoid random spikes and bolts that might stick out above or below the water line. The lack of convenient cleats made it a little more challenging to tie up, but the location was ideal. The beginning of the wharf was at the foot of what was then Port Arthur, one of the twin ports with Fort William being the other. I remember that a small tourist gazebo welcomed you to downtown, and it still stands today. Just behind it was the Prince Arthur Hotel, standing tall among other buildings of commerce.

Historical Post Card with Tourist Gazebo on the Left

Thunderbay Harbor as I remember it - Prince Arthur Hotel on the right

Legend has it that the hotel came into existence during a late-night poker game on a railcar ride back from Winnipeg in which the mayor of Port Arthur offered the president of CNR Railway prime land on the waterfront in exchange for a hotel built on the property. In 1909 the CNR's plans to build a large, luxurious hotel were underway. At the time of that first visit, it already looked like the relic from a long-ago era it was, but its waterfront profile made it alluring and majestic.

Wandering through the lobby, I remember rich, dark, wood-covered walls. Literature suggested that "aside from a string of musicians including Duke Ellington, Louis Armstrong, and Johnny Cash –just to name a few, Prime Ministers and European Nobility also made a point of stopping by. George VI and Queen Elizabeth attended a lavish reception on the hotel grounds in 1939, and Princess Elizabeth and Prince Phillip stayed overnight in a custom-built royal suite in 1951." 

In that same lobby as a guest back in May of this year, the historical overtones remained. Joining my father and mother, we were there as guests of Gordon and Eve Graham, long-time friends and former Porphyry Island lighthouse keepers. Gordon was honored by the Thunderbay Island Lighthouse Preservation Society for his spectacular photography over the many years (which is another whole story in itself). It was all part of an annual fundraising dinner held in the same hotel, in which prints of some of Gordon's photos were being auctioned.

As we entered, the look and feel of the place matched our three-star expectations. The place had been spiffed up a bit, with pleasant and warm colors of recently applied paint updating the reception area. Peering in the restaurant revealed simple tables and chairs and modest decorations. A small, slow, and well-used elevator took us to our fourth-floor rooms. Entering the hallway gave us our first indication that things may not be all as they seem. New carpet, fresh paint, and evidence of renovation underway gave us a clue that our rooms may not be as drab as anticipated. Indeed, they were contemporary looking, with a very comfortable bed and a well-equipped (with power outlets) desk. At least a four-star room.

But the real surprise, and a lesson relearned, came at the banquet dinner that evening. It was held in a modest and modestly sized dining hall at the end of the mezzanine crosswalk overlooking the lobby. The entryway was crowded by a registration table, and displays of items to be auctioned that evening. We sat quickly at the round head table to get Dad off of his aching knees. The social was active, with a cash bar serving drinks in common, simple glasses, and tables set with standard fare tableware. Nothing to suggest more than standard banquet fare other than the menu. As we read, each line of the set menu became more unbelievable. "Pineapple and red pepper sorbet"??? "Poached White Fish with...shrimp mousse.."??? Seven courses? This book did NOT look like its cover.

What we experienced that night was a meal that belonged in the finest of restaurants. Each course was entirely unique, filled with flavors you don't find in your kitchen. Each mouthful was to be savored and explored. Unlike most banquets where the demand of serving large numbers of guests simultaneously gives the food a processed look and taste, these dishes arrived as though they were prepared just for your table - fresh off the stove. Through work at 3M I had the opportunity to enjoy some pretty fine meals at the fanciest of restaurants, and this easily matched or exceeded the best of them. Who knew?

If ever you are in Thunderbay, I highly recommend you stop by the Prince Arthur Hotel for a meal at the average-looking hotel restaurant. We're told reservations may be necessary.

Modern Day Thunderbay Waterfront